South of the Arizona-Utah border, the Navajo Nation stretches away for thousands of square miles. Much of the landscape appears to be little more than sagebrush covered hills and small sandstone cliffs. The true beauty of this area is also its greatest secret. Here, water has carved exquisite forms through solid sandstone. The Navajo call this place Tsé bighánílíní, "The place where water runs through rocks." This is the lower canyon where I made arrangments to spend several hours in the ethereal passage, winding down ladders, squeezing through narrow sections, and ultimately emerging on the far side.